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London

A photograph of London

London // UK

London is really a few hundred villages that grew into each other and never quite agreed to become one thing. Big Ben is the bell, not the tower. The tower is called Elizabeth Tower, and almost nobody uses that name. Stroll along the River Thames, where the London Eye offers panoramic views of the city. Buckingham Palace opens its state rooms in summer only. The British Museum is free, and always has been. The West End is the theatre district. Camden and Portobello are the markets people actually browse rather than buy at. The pub is the living room most Londoners do not have at home. Nearly half of London is green space, which is the part that surprises people who expected only grey.

The V&A, and the two rooms nearly everyone walks past

The Victoria and Albert is free, it is enormous, and most people do the famous halls on the ground floor and leave. Two things are worth changing your route for.

The glass wing. Go for the staircase. The balustrade is a Danny Lane piece from the early nineties, built from around 160 stacked columns of float glass, bolted into place and then twisted so the whole thing reads as one undulating form rather than a row of posts. Glass used as a structural material and as sculpture at the same time, in a gallery full of objects made of the same stuff. It is the best thing in the museum that is not behind a rope.

The ceramics, at the very top. Take the lift to the top floor. The ceramics galleries run on and on up there, case after case after case of them, and they are almost always empty of people. The sheer quantity is the point: it stops being about any single pot and starts being about how long humans have been doing this and how many ways they have found to do it. Give it half an hour you had not planned.

Tip

Do the V&A backwards. Lift straight to the top for the ceramics while you are fresh and the floor is quiet, then work down through the glass wing, then the famous rooms on your way out. Everyone else is going the other way.

Some notable things to do in London, England:

Theatre:

Museums:

Attractions:

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