Montreal has five permanent public markets, and they stay open all year. The outdoor ones put up temporary walls through the winter rather than closing, which is a very Montreal solution to the problem.
If you only have time for one, the short answer is at the bottom. Here is how they differ.
Jean-Talon Market
Little Italy. Metro: Jean-Talon or De Castelnau. Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm, Saturday 8am to 6pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm.
The biggest of the five and one of the largest open-air markets in North America. Between May and October the outdoor arcades fill with around 300 vendors, most of them farmers from the countryside around the city.
This was my favourite. It is a great spot to grab lunch and it feels genuinely local rather than staged. It is further from the city centre than the others, so take the metro rather than driving. It is busier at weekends, and there is a partially enclosed indoor section that stays open year round.
Atwater Market
Beside the Lachine Canal. Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am to 5pm.
Smaller than Jean-Talon, with a more enclosed indoor corridor of sellers running from fresh meat to cheese to vegetables. There is an excellent organic market and bakery inside.
Atwater comes into its own for dinner on summer evenings. There are plenty of outdoor picnic tables and a good number of affordable farm to table options. Being closer to the centre and more sheltered, it is also the sensible choice in bad weather.
Maisonneuve Market
Near the Olympic Stadium. Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am to 6pm.
Fruit, vegetables and prepared food, in a quieter setting than the two above. Worth combining with the Olympic Park if you are already out that way.
Lachine Market
On the waterfront, and the smallest of the group. Fresh produce, mostly fruit and vegetables. Pleasant if you are nearby, not worth a special trip.
Bonsecours Market
In Old Montreal, and the odd one out. It is a historic building given over to boutiques, artisanal products and gourmet food stalls rather than a working produce market. Go for the building and the shopping, not for groceries.
Eating at the markets
Whether you are in the mood for tacos, crepes or a gluten free meal, I found it all at the Montreal farmers markets. That last one matters if you are travelling gluten free, because the markets are one of the easier places in the city to eat well without a long negotiation.
So which one?
- Warmer months, and you have the time: Jean-Talon. It is the fullest experience and worth the extra travel.
- Colder months: Atwater, for the enclosed indoor area.
- Short on time, staying central: Atwater again, purely for proximity.
- Dinner rather than lunch: Atwater in summer, when the evenings are busy.
All five are within walking distance of a metro station, and Jean-Talon, Atwater and Maisonneuve all have parking if you would rather drive.