Ponta da Ferraria sits on the west coast of São Miguel in the Azores, out in the middle of the Atlantic.
Set in a basalt cove and reachable only at low tide, Ponta da Ferraria is where the Atlantic meets water warm enough to swim in. The drive down to this cragged beach is nothing short of an adventure, with every turn revealing more of the coastline. As I stood there, waves crashing against rugged lava rocks, I couldn’t help but wonder, “Where are we? What is this place!?” Ponta da Ferraria, Ginetes, São Miguel Island, Azores, Portugal. In my humble opinion, this is the most miraculous place on the island of São Miguel.
Once you arrive it’s hard not to gape back at the gradient you descend to reach it, an exquisite layering of rocky hues against a black lava coastline, with aggressive 15-20 foot waves adding to the drama. Ponta da Ferraria is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. Right near the parking lot stands the Spa Termas da Ferraria, with beautiful man-made pools, inside and out, fed by thermal waters. While tempting, I was on a mission to find the thermal ocean pool which is only visible during low tide and a fusion of geothermal waters with the cold ocean. Until now it had seemed mystical and unreachable.
After a bit of guidance, I found my way to the rugged pass beyond the spa that reached the thermal ocean pool. The signage wasn’t the best when I went, and I ended up traversing hazardous lava rocks before discovering the nicely paved pathway. The reward was worth every step. The ocean swimming hole was just as enchanting as in the photos, with people descending a metal ladder into the pool, despite the vigorous waves. It’s a small pool that can’t fit too many and there’s a rope that you hold for safety so you thrash against any rocks since the waves are quite strong.
The experience of swimming here was nothing short of exhilarating. The waves tugged us back and forth, creating a thrill that kept us completely present in the moment. You feel the warm thermal water oscillating beneath and after what felt like 15 minutes, I carefully made my way out of the pool, but the fun was far from over. I joined the group that was swimming alongside me on the tiny lava shore, where we could feel a bit more of the thermal spring water. Supposedly in the summer this tiny beach is too hot to even sit, though in the winter it’s a welcome place and felt safer…unless a giant wave enters the cove!
As I was laughing with my new Portuguese crew the scene quickly turned into an unintentional rescue scene out of a movie. It turns out the shore is not as safe as I thought and a giant wave almost pushed me into a giant boulder nearby, if it weren’t for the new swimming friends catching me as the large wave approached I would’ve been in for a different kind of vacation. Since I ended up being ok and only swallowing some salt water in what could’ve been a lot worse, laughter and shared stories followed, and we bid farewell as the sun set over the ocean and lava rocks.
Ponta da Ferraria is the kind of place you end up telling people about for years.
Practical Footnotes:
- Driving: Roads on Sao Miguel island are incredibly well-paved, thanks to EU funding. Signage is clear, and cameras offer real-time weather updates. Having a car, especially an automatic, makes getting around much easier.
- Water Shoes: Good foot protection is essential on the jagged lava rocks. Neoprene toe shoes or water socks are recommended. Flip-flops are not ideal and in my opinion can present more of a hazard than help at places like Ponta da Ferraria.
- Photos: Traveling solo or together with others, getting the perfect shot can be a challenge. Asking someone to take a picture can make all the difference when you’re looking back at the memories. Don’t be shy; get that great photo and ask someone who looks like they might know what they’re doing!